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Narly Dude
One thing we've used around here (The
Pacific Northwest) is pitch wood from old tree trunks.
Some of these felled giants from the last century look
badly decayed from a distance due to our plentiful
rainfall and their age. However, a little research may
lend you to discover that those old and decrepit stumps
have a solid heart drenched in pitch.
We treasure these for survival purposes knowing that
they'll rescue us in our time of need, just like the
grouse. The grouse does not move far away so you can
harvest them easily in your time of need with a stick,
always remembering that it takes a very long time for
these birds to replenish another's territory, and
therefore, should only be taken in a true time of need.
Walk softly, friend.
Monk O. Doom
A "hobo-style" stove my partner and I use
when camping -- ingredients are: an empty tuna can, a
strip of corrugated cardboard (1-1/2 x 6 inches) and a
box of paraffin wax; roll the cardboard lengthwise and
dip into melted wax; let soak; melt some wax in the can
and set the cardboard coil in it; fill the can with more
wax and let it melt till about 1/4-inch of cardboard
remain sticking out. Makes for an excellent cooking
stove for two. All you need is 3 rocks around it to set
your pot on! Make sure you put in more chopped wax every
20 min. or so, keeping it semi- full, or the wick will
burn away; otherwise the same wick will serve you for a
long time. the downside of this contraption is the soot
buildup on your pan.
Jake Leslie
When constructing a desert shelter, erect a
"second roof" one or two feet above the first.
This will reflect much of the heat your first roof would
normally pass on to you and it can be removed and used
as an extra blanket at night.
Kevin O’Toole
Take just one mitten off when in the arctic if you
got too hot that way it will eventually cool the whole
body down.
Roy Sherman, California:
Pine snap, which is easily gathered from tree wounds,
makes a wilderness glue and sealant that is hard to
beat. To give it some body, heat and mix with a little
powdered black charcoal from your campfire. (Then ball
it to the end of a stick, let it cool, and it will be
easily transportable and ready to melt off as you need
it. —Tamarack)
Don Mortenson:
Before throwing your fish bait in the water, douse it
with cod liver oil. The smell will make your bait more
attractive and attract fish from quite a distance. It is
very effective.
Drew Lanier, Georgia:
Wash a fur in the same way that the animal would-dip
in water and shake vigorously. Repeat several times if
necessary, then let dry. (Try not to get the skin itself
wet, and comb or brush only after the fur is dry. —Tamarack)
Use sawdust or pulverized punky wood to degrease a
pelt in preparation for tanning. Work it in with your
hands, let it sit for 15 minutes or so, scrape it off,
and reapply if necessary.
Tamarack Song:
When using an absorbent material such as sawdust to
degrease a pelt, warm the pelt first. The warmer the
grease, the better it absorbs. When scraping to
degrease, chill the pelt to as close to freezing as
possible. Cold grease firms up, which make it easier to
scrape off.
For faster action on a counterweight snare, grease
the pole your cord slides over. This is particularly
effective in cold weather when things are slow and
stiff.
Make trap triggers out of hardwood rather than
softwood. Hardwood compresses and sags less, so the
trigger will respond more quickly and better maintain
its original set. Also, because of the relative strength
of hardwood over softwood, trigger components can be
made thinner. This will increase the speed of the trap.
When you do not have a steel or stone knife to slice
meat thinly for drying, mash it out with a stone or
wooden pounder. Some soft flesh can be rolled flat, as
one would flatten dough to make cookies or pie crust.
The occasional piece of meat can be torn apart by hand.
Hank Fletcher:
To keep deer flies and mosquitoes away while in the
woods, pick a sassafras leaf' roll it between your
hands; and put it behind your ear. The smell will keep
them away, and is pleasing to humans.
Rob Johnson:
When making the spindle for your bow drill fire
making kit, follow this rule of thumb-keep the spindle
your thumb diameter or smaller. Fire starting will then
be easier and faster.
Nicole Finan:
Fire starting is also easier when the grain of your
fireboard runs vertical.
Tim Nelson:
To keep your joints and bones strong, consume the
soft bone and connective tissue along with the meat you
are eating.
Kimberly Wilson:
No matter what the climate is or time of year, keep a
supply of dry firewood handy. You will never know when
you may need it.
To avoid internal parasites, gather them away from
areas where they might be contaminated by body wastes or
waterborne parasites, and wash all questionable wild
edibles.
David Jonas:
Balsam fir resin makes an excellent wilderness
antiseptic for treating cuts and abrasions. To obtain it
quickly, simply pierce the resin bubbles that appear on
the bark surface.
Rob Johnson:
Because of folding, a blade knife has a joint that
could fail. A straight blade knife can prove more
reliable in a wilderness situation where there is no
ready backup.
Matt Nelson:
I prefer a tomahawk to a hatchet, because I can
easily slip off the tomahawk handle and use the head as
a separate tool. In the woods, I can easily make a
tomahawk handle replacement.
Jill Thompson:
Wear the lightest footwear possible. It is cooler and
less fatiguing on long hikes, dries faster, and
interferes the least with feeling the trail, especially
at night.
Andre Therrien:
Watch the weather closely. Being able to foretell a
weather change can help to avoid a potential survival
situation.
Neil:
For backcountry wear, I choose wool clothing, because
it maintains its loft and insulates even when wet.
Tamarack Song:
Something akin to sandpaper can be a hard item to
come up with in the wilderness. The original sandpaper
was wet sand on a piece of leather. A rounded sandstone
can work well for sanding hides; a squarish stone might
work better for wood.
A quickie clamp made of a split stick works well for
pulling needles through materials like tough buckskin.
David Jonas:
Balsam fir resin makes an excellent wilderness
antiseptic for treating cuts and abrasions. To obtain it
quickly, simply pierce the resin bubbles that appear on
the bark surface.
Rob Johnson:
Because of folding, a blade knife has a joint which
could fail. A straight blade knife can prove more
reliable in a wilderness situation where there is no
ready backup.
Matt Nelson:
I prefer a tomahawk to a hatchet, because I can easily
slip off the tomahawk handle and use the head as a
separate tool. In the woods, I can make a tomahawk
handle replacement.
Jill Thompson:
Wear the lightest footwear possible. It is cooler and
less fatiguing on long hikes, dries faster, and
interferes the least with feeling the trail, especially
at night.
Andre Therrien:
Watch the weather closely. Being able to foretell a
weather change can help to avoid a potential survival
situation.
Neil:
For back country wear, I choose wool clothing, because
it maintains its loft and insulates even when wet.
Ed Cotton:
In the west and other dry areas, cedar or sage brush
bark and other fibers are used to carry fire from site
to site while on the move. In the wooded areas of the
world, especially the northern hemisphere, the grape
vine is available. The piece of fiber or vine that is
available in your area has to be dry. Simply light one
end, and carry the other end in your mouth. Give the
vine a puff or air once in a while. The vine glows red
and burns slowly, maintaining an ember for hours and can
even burn for days.
Tamarack Song:
Something akin to sandpaper can be a hard item to come
up with in the wilderness. The original sandpaper was
wet sand on a piece of leather. A rounded sandstone can
work well for sanding hides; a squarish stone might work
better for wood.
A quickie clamp made of a split stick works well for
pulling needles through materials like tough buckskin.
Kimberly Wilson:
Drink before you are thirsty, especially before going on
a hike. Once you feel thirsty, you are already
dehydrated. This is important in the winter, too,
because we do not overheat and sweat as easily as in the
summer. It is not as obvious that we are dehydrating.
Winters can be long, and the days short. To help
avoid depression, take advantage of all the sun you
possibly can by getting outside. Regularly expose your
skin to the sun in order to as much Vitamin D that your
body needs.
Chris Bean:
Breaking trail in deep snow takes a lot of energy. When
you are traveling in a group, switch off the lead person
periodically. North country wolf packs move this way in
order that none of the wolves will get over tired. This
works great for humans, also.
Warm rocks by the fire, and wrap them in a towel to
take to bed with you to keep your feet warm and help
soothe tight, sore muscles.
Tim Nelson:
Always be aware of rodents; they will eat things
we do not normally consider edible (such as rawhide).
They can cause considerable damage in the process. I
keep a year-round trap line going around my lodge.
Do not neglect your teeth when you are out in the wilds.
In fact, I would suggest taking extra special care of
them. This is one area "where an ounce of
prevention is worth a pound of cure."
Have two or more plans or projects going at all
times. That way, regardless of weather, materials
shortage, or whatever other variables may come up, you
will be able to keep yourself occupied. This also helps
to prevent disappointment and keeps your spirits up.
This is very important in the wilderness.
Susan Smith:
A good way to get (or keep) warm is to stay active. Just
be careful not to overheat and sweat, as that can cause
chilling and lead to hypothermia.
Gary Odum:
The next time you are fishing in a creek, try finding
mussels or freshwater snails in the shallows of the
creek. If the creek is fast running try looking around
the downstream side of a sunken log or stone. The snails
prefer these areas of calmer water. Mussels can be found
in shallow sandy flats of the creek. Their shells are
black usually and they can be seen fairly easily against
light colored sand. Once you obtain a few snails or
mussels crack them open and use them for fish bait. Both
the mussel and the freshwater snail have hard bodies and
you can often use the same snail or mussel to catch
several fish. Bream love them.
As a kid my father taught me how to rob wasp nests to
get the pupae. Use your cane pole (the longer the
better) and slip the tip of it between the nest and
whatever it is attached to.
If you go slow and easy, the wasps will not be
disturbed. Quickly scrape the nest off and run. The
wasps will swarm around a while but will settle down in
a few minutes and you can pick the nest up off the
ground. The pupae make excellent fish bait. It is hard
to bait hooks with these pupae so take a piece of nylon
stocking and make a small pouch and put the pupa in the
pouch and run your hook through it and the pupa.
You will have more fish than you know what to do with if
you are not careful.
Shawi Hickman:
Wild duck or large bird? Find where they nest! Then, you
get the eggs.Put out some corn (dry) just to say thanks
to them. Good to start the day!
Edward Reck:
I once read a book where it said that some Indian tribes
would melt down empty whiskey and beer bottles into huge
lumps which they broke up, and chipped into arrow heads
and other useful items, the same as they did with
obsidian and chert. I do not remember the name of the
book, since so much time has gone by since I read it.
Also, I never experimented with the concept, although, I
have knapped flakes off of broken pieces of glass with a
blunt nail so I am pretty confident that it works.
Ken Lee:
Take a couple of compact discs next time you go into the
wilderness - not for music, but because they make a
great light-weight signaling mirror, double sided,
complete with center aiming hole. They can be easily cut
with a Stanley knife into fit any pocket, or a hole can
be drilled through them to hang from a cord.
Larry Snyder:
Whenever I am out hunting or hiking, I always carry some
blue-tipped matches dipped in wax, and a wad of
"000" steel wool. If you get into trouble and
need to start a fire, you have waterproof matches and
the steel wool as one of the best tinder that will start
even wet twigs. All you have to do is put some of the
steel wool under some small twigs and sticks, and touch
your match to the wool. It won't look like it is lit
until you blow on it. It will be glowing red and hotter
than hell The nice thing about the steel wool is that it
does not matter if it gets wet. It will still work.
John Thomas:
For a good firestarter you can use a Duraflame fireplace
log. I broke one into small pieces and it lasted all
summer into the fall starting many fires. Just touch a
small flame to it and you've got flames-a-plenty.
Consuelo Quisumbing:
We can always buy lighters and kitchen matches at
stores. But what if modern civilization falls apart, and
factories and manufacturers stop producing these
products? What do we do? Brown or waste paper twine is
used in my country for wrapping goods. But paper twine
can be an alternative "match." Snip off 2-inch
pieces from a length of twine and dip these in melted
paraffin or beeswax. Take care not to coat twine
"matches" with too much or too thin a coating,
or they will not work. Dry, and keep in a small Ziploc
pouch. The next time you need to light your fireplace or
campfire, light this "match" with your lighter
and use it to set fire to the tinder. The twine
"match" produces a strong bright flame for a
full minute. You save on kitchen matches and lighter
fluid.
James Wells:
About "not eating if there is no water
around..." You had better find water
SOMEWHERE, and quickly. The old movie stuff about a
troop of men hiking across a desert by conserving one
canteen of water is pure fiction. If you do not get
enough fluid for your kidneys to produce about 30cc of
urine per hour, you will soon notice severe weakness due
to impending renal (kidney) failure. Death will soon
follow. If you have water and are at all thirsty, DRINK
IT. It will help you stay clear-headed, hopefully long
enough to find more water.
E. Musik:
ALTERNATE FIRE STARTER (an alternative to Steve Dexter's
fire starters): I cut up a paper egg carton, dip the
small cups in paraffin and allow them to dry. Then, I
pack them with saw dust and wood shavings onto which I
pour liquid paraffin to top off. They burn for a long
while without a large consumption of paraffin.
Jim Mainwaring:
FIRE CRAFT: While in the woods, collect the moss (lican)
hanging from the branches of fir and pine trees. This
moss is found through out the Pacific Northwest. Place
it in your pocket to dry. Once dried, you can light it
with a simple spark from a flint bar.
Another one is using cotton balls with Vaseline worked
into them. It also can be ignited with a spark and burns
hot. All though this second method really does not
represent true wilderness skills, it is excellent for a
survival situation.
T. (Clarence) Porter:
To help disguise your natural human scent just before
the hunt, try this method taught to me by a true
(old-time) woods-man. When your warming up next to the
fire on that chilly morning Just before daylight; Before
putting out your fire and it has burnt down, lay a large
portion of fresh cut GREEN pine needles on your coals.
When they start up a good cloud of smoke, start jumping
through the smoke several times while in your hunting
clothes for the day. Be sure to close your eyes when
doing this, as the sap smoke may burn your eyes a
little. The pine sap and odor will coat you and your
clothes with a layer of pine scented residue. The odor
is pleasing, and if you have a very light sticky feeling
(which shouldn't last long before drying) the sap smoke
has done it's job. Be sure to coat your boots real well
by holding your feet in the smoke about twice as long,
as it will ware off quicker while walking to your hide.
Mike Powers:
A sure way to keep warm is to carry a candle with a
candle holder and an extra large poncho. Pile a layer of
insulation on the ground. Sit down on that insulation
pile and have your extra large poncho totally enclose
your body, including your head, and light the candle. In
this small space the air will quickly heat up. It is
best to have a candle holder with a protective top so
you don't end up burning your poncho should it fall on
the candle flame. This set up can keep you warm in an
emergency situation. You will need an extra large poncho
to totally enclose your body when you sit on the ground.
Don't forget to put that layer of insulation under you.
Tim Roy:
If you are in the woods and it rains, get wood and
whittle away the outside. This will leave dry wood on
the inside (provided it is not rotten, or too soft), and
you can use the shavings for tinder.
Michael Castleton:
Clean and Filtered Water Made Easy: Filters are just too
big for survival kits, and sometimes even during a light
hike. Easily solved. Using a bandana (a high priority
item in any survival kit) and some type of container
(hopefully your canteen survived the crash;), cover the
top of the container with the bandana securing it with
either your hand/sting/ rubberband whatever... Dip this
into the best source of water you can find and allow the
cloth to filter out all large items If the water is
sandy and/or you ca not see through it, fold the bandana
over a few times. The more folds you have, the longer it
will take usually. Using a small eye-dropper bottle (can
be found at pharmacies and the like) drop in 1-2 drops
of bleach per liter of water, (yes, bleach, Clorox)
Allow the stuff to work for 5 minutes, shaking it every
minute. This process will filter out and/or kill
everything that you will need to worry about, and the
taste is much like home.
Ed Reck:
If your area does not have a lot of flint or obsidian
laying around on the ground, try glass. I remember years
ago reading about Native Americans melting down whiskey
bottles, then chipping and napping the mass into arrow
heads. If it worked then, it should work now.
Roger Inman:
One of the best set of books to learn almost all of the
survival skills is the BOY SCOUT HAND BOOK and
the BOY SCOUT FIELD GUIDE. Every thing from
making shelters, collecting food, water, to building
materials. How to choose a camping site. Which plants
and critters to eat, etc. These books can be found at
scouting outlets (i.e. J C Penneys in some areas and
other stores) as well as as well as district or council
service centers. Look in the yellow pages.
Two other books are the US ARMY SURVIVAL MANUAL
and THE SAS SURVIVAL HANDBOOK by John Wiseman,
Collins Harvill, publisher. Both may be purchased from
army surplus stores and some book stores. But remember,
you can read for 20 years, but if you don't practice the
skills that you read about, you will not be ready when
the time comes.
I have been teaching and practicing skills for 35 years
and hope I NEVER, NEVER, EVER HAVE TO USE WHAT I KNOW!
Have had a lot of fun along the way!
Fred Melvin:
MAKING FIRE WITH ICE: Shape a piece of ice like a
magnifying lens, and then polish it by melting the
outside with body heat. It does not work as good as a
magnifying lens, but it can be done.
Steve Dexter:
If you want a guaranteed fire-starter here is what to
do:
Take a small wax covered paper cup and melt paraffin or
wax into it. Let it dry. It lights even if it is wet.
Use a match or lighter or whatever.
Consuelo Quisumbing:
USING FISH TO CATCH OTHER FISH: My grandparents had
fishponds on their farm, surrounded by fruit orchards
and coconut trees. One particular pond contained as ugly
a bunch of freshwater carp as could be found; the kind
only other carp could love. They were good eating, but
my cousins and I weren't allowed to catch them, although
they were so stupid you could catch them quick. These
fish were gluttons, and their gluttony on some occasions
helped me catch several fat and tasty catfish. There was
a small bridge at the end of the pond, and there were
large cats that were living under it. The trouble was,
it was difficult to cast bait under the bridge; the hook
always caught on snags. One day I fed the carp leftover
rice next to the bridge, and a gang of them trudged
along the bottom, dredging mud and debris. To my
surprise, catfish started to surface, and they joined
the feeding. It seemed that either the dredging
disturbed them out of their holes, or it was a signal to
come out and eat.
SURVIVAL NEEDLES: Many survival kits fail to include a
compact sewing kit. This is unfortunate, because having
a needle at the right time, when stuck in the wrong
place, can be a lifesaver. Known as tailors' or
leathercraft needles, these items are found at crafts
stores and special hobby fairs. They are usually
contained in a package of seven to eight assorted
needles, each with its own purpose: flat-bladed needles
are used for sacks, tents, canvas, and carpets.
Spear-like needles are used for leather goods, chairs
and sofas. Curved needles are for beds, mattresses and
seats. A single type cannot suffice for most sewing
duties. Just imagine yourself in a leaky tent in a
rainstorm, and you wish that you had brought a sewing
kit! Among the Inuit, it was said, there are (3) three
important things a man must have to survive the Arctic:
a good knife, firestarters, and a sewing kit.
SPACE BLANKET VS. SURVIVAL BAG: The space blanket and
the survival bag are two items which are products of the
new age in survival gear. Before these were created, men
made do with bulky clothing and heavy woolen blankets.
It was hard to get warm if your clothes and wool
blankets got soaked with sweat or water. Both the space
blanket and survival bag have become camping and/or
search and rescue essentials, and both have their
merits, as well as faults. For instance, the space
blanket is cheap for purchase, compact, light for carry,
a good reflector of body heat and sunlight for rescue,
and can withstand low temperatures. The survival bag, on
the other hand, is very strong, durable, wind-proof,
light for carry, keeps in body heat, makes a good
mattress, can be a duffel bag in a pinch, can be used as
a signal device, and is good in temperatures down to
freezing. The space blanket is not flameproof,
wind-proof, and tear-proof. It is also noisy. The
survival bag is not cheap, compact, flameproof,
noiseless.
THE SURVIVAL WHISTLE: The little orange
"survival" whistle has been around for some
time, and I believe that most people take this item for
granted, since there are better survival items available
to the public. However, for its compactness and it being
one of the smallest survival kits around, it is also one
kit that would most probably not attract attention from
nosy official folks, since it resembles a toy. It is an
item that can contain matches, line and fishhooks,
iodine tabs and other medication, money, etc. Its value
is doubled with the addition of a small mirror, compass,
and whistle. This is a "toy" that I would give
to a child, in case they got lost. Also, hikers could
benefit by putting it along with larger survival kits.
Kayakers could hang it around their necks by its cord,
along with a neck knife and compass, in case the kayak
turns over. The only flaw is that it is constructed of a
not-too-durable plastic.
J. Keller:
If in the woods and it is raining and/or snowing and you
need to start a fire look for the belly wood on downed
trees. The pitchier, the better. Belly wood is the wood
on the bottom part of the tree that will still be dry
even though everything else may be soaked. A small
hatchet is very helpful for removing strips of it.
A second pointer is to practice your survival skills on
weekend survival hikes with friends. Then, when you need
to really use the skills, you will have already
perfected them.
Jason Coombs:
Whenever using rocks in coal beds, reflectors or as
boiling rocks, be sure that the rocks are collected from
a high and dry area. It may take a little more time to
secure good rocks, but the effort is certainly worth it
and could save you from a painful accident. Rocks that
are collected from a creek bed or in a damp place can
hold moisture in them that forces itself out when the
rocks are heated. This creates an explosion of
incredible force. Not only is it dangerous, (i.e., loss
of eye, puncture wound, etc.), but the loud pop sounds
like a gunshot and may scare away any wild game you hope
to harvest. Nine out of ten accidents in the woods are
self-inflicted, so be careful and use your head.
FOOD IN THE WOODS: Cattails are one of the most abundant
and best tasting plants out there. Sometime you should
plan on getting "lost" near a patch of them,
and take along a good guide. They have six edible parts
and numerous other utilitarian uses (i.e. insulation
from the down, mats and baskets from the leaves,
toothbrush, medicine etc.
This is not really a primitive idea, but it would work
well in an outdoor situation. Always take along a couple
large sized plastic garbage bags with the pull-string
ties on them. They have hundreds of uses, but one of the
really good ones is to use them as an emergency poncho
if you get caught without a real one. Just cut, rip or
tear a hole in the bottom and one on each side. Your
head goes through the bottom one and your arms through
the side ones. It wears out fast, but would certainly
get you out of a pinch.
Consuelo Quisumbing:
I grew up in the suburbs, and when I was twelve or
thirteen years old I came across one of the first
editions of SURVIVE magazine in a second-hand
bookstore. I remember being so fascinated by the
articles in that long-forgotten magazine. They were so
unlike the familiar scouting manuals being used by my
scoutmaster uncles and cousins. When I began saving
money to buy any old survival magazine I could get my
hands on, my Daddy would just shake his head and tell me
to pursue more "ladylike" interests. I am in
my thirties now, and I can survive by myself out in the
wilderness, and have more confidence to rely more on the
skills I have learned from survival magazines, than on
the machines of modern technology that we have come to
rely on to run our lives. Since I live in a tropical
Asian country, some things are worth knowing: exposure
to the elements, bugs, and bad food are three things
that can do you in faster than reckless car driving or
poor health habits.
Ralph Slater:
Very rotted black birch sometimes referred to as
"punky" makes an excellent coal extender, as
well as tinder. I discovered this a while back when
blowing on some that I was using to smoke a brain tanned
deerskin. While blowing on some new chunks that I had
added to my already smoking ones, I found that with just
a small amount of effort I could get a glowing coal to
burst into flame. Since then, I have tried other rotted
wood, and found some others will do the same, but maybe
not quite as easily.
A.G. Drew:
If you are in a survival situation and have a seriously
injured or ill member in your party, feed them the
stomach contents of any large game you are lucky enough
to catch. The body requires water and protein to both
heal itself and to digest food. Feeding this particular
food source to the injured or ill person, allows their
body to absorb the nutrients in it while not having to
divert protein from healing to digestion. The healthy
survivalist may take advantage of this highly efficient
food source as well (waste not, need not). It is said to
have a sweet taste.
Scott Wiggins:
You can use Horse Chestnut leaves as a soap replacement.
The leaves contain saponin.
Don Brink:
A tip for hand-drill fires that turned 5-6 passes down
the spindle to 3-4. I do the sitting position holding
the hearth or foreboard with my foot. The notch faces
me, so I can see the coal when it comes. Spit on your
hands to give them more grab on the spindle. Do one pass
with no effort to warm things up a bit. On the first
"real" pass, tilt the top of the spindle back
toward you about 20 degrees (watch it or it will pop out
of the hole!). About half-way down, tilt the top of the
spindle about 20 degrees away from you. When you reach
the bottom, get your hands back to the top and go again.
As I said, this cut my number of passes in half,
therefore, doubling my efficiency at the hand-drill.
Another tip, start looking in the woods for any long
straight and dry "weeds," and try them for
spindles. I have discovered many new materials this way.
CJ Flores:
I have suggested to people to bring a fresnel lens with
them when traveling. If you are lost in the wilderness,
it can be an easy fire starter. Keeping a fire going is
one way to be spotted. For food, learn how to eat
insects if you can. Find out which weeds can be eaten,
and how to prepare them. If it is possible, dig out an
underground home. Perhaps there is a cave somewhere.
Watch out for hibernating bears!
Jeff Fields:
If you are stuck in the woods, and you are close to a
lot of acorns, take the insides of the acorn out, and
let them sit in water for a day. Then grind them up, and
let them dry out. You can use them as flour, or make
pancakes from them.
James Ninilchik:
SNOW SHELTER: The best and quickest and easiest
snow shelter I have ever seen and used, that requires no
skill or tools to build is this: Stomp out a trench or
box or round shaped room in the snow, packing the snow
and piling it up around the perimeter using your feet
and hands. Next take branches, debris, leaves, or bark
(whatever is available), and place over the top for a
roof. To further insulate your shelter, you can place
snow over this for a thick ceiling. BUT: Make sure you
have adequate ventilation and remember that any snow
overhead can melt and drip. You do not want to get wet,
if your heat sources warm the inside up. For a door you
can use any number of things to seal it off: branches, a
backpack, clothing, etc. You can line the sleeping area
with a browse bed composed of evergreen boughs about
2" - 8" thick.
A SMALL LIGHTER: In northern climates, especially in
winter, a small lighter (either butane or Zippo) can be
extremely handy. In a cold land with little light, you
then have a method to make a fire quickly, and a light
for short duration visibility. It is also great for
melting synthetic ropes after cutting. A lighter can be
seen for a long ways off at night. It is great for
signaling over barren ground (i.e. arctic, desert or
above timberline).
James Ninilchik:
BANDANA MADNESS: Here is a piece of cloth with a
thousand uses. Catch the morning dew off the grass and
shrubs and wring it into your mouth for water. Get it
wet on a hot day to sponge yourself off and wear around
your forehead for cooling. Wear as a cap over your head
by tying a knot in each corner and then rolling them in
towards center till you get a tight fit. Other uses
include: hotpads, sunscreen, tourniquets, cleaning
cloth, washing cloth, and carrying food and other
articles by folding and tying it. Use it on a stick for
a lure, or a signaling flag. A bandana is only limited
by your lack of resourcefulness.
FIRE STARTER FOR COLD, WET CONDITIONS: Bicycle
inner tubes cut into 1" - 2" squares make
great fire starters in cold, wet conditions, like sea
kayaking along the Pacific Northwest coast. Any bike
shop will give you tubes that are no good, and you can
keep them in a small container. If they are wet, they
work just as well. They are easy to light, and burn hot
and bright for several minutes, allowing wet tinder to
dry out and start burning.
Thomas Bickel (age 13):
If you are ever lost in the woods, remember that the
Pileated Woodpecker digs his home facing east, a Flying
Squirrel's hole is usually facing east, a spiders web is
usually facing south, the rings on a cut down tree most
often show a greater growth on north and northeast
sides, and the tops of evergreen trees usually bend to
the east.
Hans Wolfgang:
FIRE AT YOUR FINGER TIPS: I have found that the
Boy Scouts sell a handy little processed flint and steel
kit that makes a great zipper pull tab for your parka.
Granted, I could probably find all of the fire building
tools I might need in the wild, but sometimes it is nice
to have a little man-made help right at your finger
tips. I usually remove the included piece of steel, and
just use the processed flint stick in order to avoid any
undesired noise, due to the two pieces clanking
together. Any piece of scrap steel will work (i.e. metal
watch bands, belt buckles, etc.). Do not neglect the
back side of your ever present pocket knife blade. It
will serve admirably as a scraping bar. I have found
that when it comes making fire, an extra back-up can
never hurt.
Josh B.:
Having trouble making those beautiful bow staves? Why
not attach another bow opposite to the front of your
weaker bow staves to make what I call a "double
bow." It should look like a backwards letter
"C" attached at the center. Remember to frap
cordage to the extremities of the stave.
Jeff Gresser:
Do not throw away that dryer lint! It is a great fire
starter. Save it in Zip-lock bags and flatten them, or
pack it into a small plastic vitamin jar for your
survival kit. Dampen the lint with lighter fluid, and
you have got a "sure fire tinder."
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